Article of footwear



Jan. 2l`, 1958 P. E. HlEsTAND 228202303 ARTICLE: oF FOOTWEAR Filed June 1o, 1952 2 sheets-shea: 1

Jan. 21, 1958 P. E. Hit-:STAND 2,820,308

' ARTICLE 0F FOOTWEAR v Filed June 10, '1952 ZIShQQtS-Shee.- 2

. A INVENTOR.

5K3 PTQSOZZ BY M Pl' JEC-wmf United States Patent C ARTICLE F FOOTWEAR Preston E. Hiestand, Princeton, Wis., assigner to Handcraft Company, Inc., Princeton, Wis., a corporation of Wisconsin Application .lune 10, 1952, Serial No. 292,707

1 Claim. (Cl. 36-9) The present invention relates to an article of footwear. and more particularly, to footwear adapted to be worn as leisure shoes, bedroom slippers, for beachwear, etc.

The principal object of the invention is to provide an article of footwear that is light in weight, attractive in appearance, and which will afford a maximum of comfort to the wearer.

Another object of the invention is to provide an article of footwear that can be firmly secured on the foot of the wearer and induce a feeling of "springiness in the step of the wearer.

Another object of the invention is to provide an article of footwear that can be made by mass production methods with a minimum of handling and costs for materials.

A further object of the invention is to provide footwear that can be made from pieces of cloth or other suitable material of comparatively small size, but still large enough to be easily manipulated during the sewing operation.

A further object of the invention is to provide an article of footwear that can be made with a single, plain or patterned material, or multiple plain or patterned materials, and which will have an interior presenting a finished apt pearance Without requiring the use of separate lining materials.

A still further object of the invention is to provide an upper for an article of footwear having its own sole portion, but adapted to be adhesively bonded to wear soles of various materials.

A still further object of the invention is to provide an article of footwear that will tit neatly and comfortably about the heel and ankle of the wearer and which can be readily applied to and removed from the foot of the wearer.

Other objects and features of the invention will become apparent from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a view showing the shape of one of four identical sections of suitable material which comprise the side walls of the present article of footwear;

Fig. 2 diagrammatically illustrates the first step in the process of making the present article of footwear, wherein two sections are superimposed and sewed together along the heel and back portion of the article;

Fig. 3 illustrates the next step in the process, wherein two additional sections are superimposed and sewed together as in Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 illustrates the next two steps in the process, wherein: (l) the joined sections shown in Figs. 2 and 3 are unfolded and superimposed upon each other with the previously formed seams outermost, and then stitched together by a continuous row of sitches following the contour of the upper edge of the sections, as shown; and (2) holes are punched to receive a tie cord;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary view illustrating the manner in which the toe ends of the sub-assembly shown in Fig. 4 are unfolded and superimposed upon each other with the seams outermost and then sewn together by vertical stitches;

fr"ce Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the four sections after they have been stitched together, as aforedescribed, and then turned inside out;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary horizontal sectional view taken on the line 7-7 of Fig. 6, through the seams at the toe portion of the article;

Fig. S is a fragmentary horizontal sectional view taken on the line 8--8 of Fig. 6, illustrating the seams at the heel portion of the article;

Fig. 9 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 9--9 of Fig. 6 and particularly illustrating the seam at the upper edge of the article and the double side wall construction of the article;

Fig. 10 is a view illustrating the outline of two identical pieces of material that are employed to form the top, or toe, and tongue portion of the article, the two pieces being shown sewn together by a single row of stitches interrupted to leave a gap therein;

Fig. 1l is a view of the two pieces shown in Fig. l0 after they have been turned inside out, the gap closed by further stitching, and holes punched to receive a tie-cord;

Fig. 12 is a perspective View of a complete assembly of the side walls, the toe and tongue portion, and an insole;

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the outer or wear sole;

Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the completely assembled article, including the tie-cord threaded through the side Walls and tongue of the article;

Fig. 15 is an enlarged, fragmentary sectional View taken on the line 15--15 of Fig. 12 illustrating the manner in which the upper is sewn to the insole;

Fig. 16 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional View similar to Fig. 15 but illustrating the manner in which the upper may be additionally sewn to the insole by ornamental overedge stitching;

Fig. 17 is a horizontal sectional plan view taken on the line 17-17 of Fig. 14;

Fig. 18 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 18-18 of Fig. 17;

Fig. 19 is a vertical sectional view through the toe portion of the article, taken on the line 19-19 of Fig. 18;

Fig. 20 is a vertical sectional view through the ankle portion of the article, taken on the line 20-20 of Fig. 18;

Fig. 21 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the ornamental stitching employed to Secure the side Walls and top or toe portion of the article together; and

Fig. 22 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the ornamental stitching employed for attaching the upper to the insole.

Referring now to the drawings, the portion of the article constituting the upper is generally identified by the numeral 1 and includes side walls made from four smilarly shaped sections 2, 3, 4, and 5, the specific shape or contour of one of the sections being illustrated in Fig. 1, wherein the section 2 has been illustrated. Each of the sections 2, 3, 4, and 5 includes a continuous straight bottom edge 6 extending from a narrow portion 7, forming a side wall for the toe, to a relatively wide heel and ankle embracing portion 8. The toe portion 7 has a vertical edge 9 and slightly increases in height from said edge toward about the middle of the section where its upper edge 10 merges along an arcuate, concave edge 11 with the ankle portion 8. An arcuate edge 12, struck on a radius 13, connects the front edge 11 with a straight top edge 14 (which is parallel with the bottom edge 6) on the ankle portion 8. The ankle portion 8 has a rear edge 15 extending for the full height thereof and consisting of substantially vertical portions A and B offset with respect to each other, and a forwardly inclined portion C between the portions A and B. The inclined por tion C and offset portion A provide for a snug f0ot- 3 conforming -t a-round the ankle and heel of the wearer when the sections are sewn together.

AIn Fig. 2, the section 3 is shown superimposed upon the section 2, with a portion of the toe end of the latter broken away to facilitate illustration. The parts thus disposed are preferably secured together by a single row of stitches 16 spaced inwardly about 96 or 1A from the'edges 15. In Fig. 3, the sections 4 and 5 are shown similarly superimposed `and secured together by a single row of stitches 17. The sections 2 3 and 4 5, thus sewn together, are then unfolded or spread apart and superimposed upon each other with the seams formed by the stitching 16 and 17 disposed outermost, as illustrated in Fig. 4. The material projecting at the seams is folded back flat against the sections as indicated, for example, at 4a and 5a in Fig. 4 and the sections are stitched together by a continuous row of stitches 18 starting at the vertical edge 9 of the sections 2 and 5 and continuing adjacent the upper edges of all of the sections and terminating at the vertical edges 9 of the sections 3 and 4. The stitches 18, of course, follow the contour of the superimposed sections and lie inwardly about /16" to 1A" from the edges 10, 11, 12, and 13 of the sections.

After completion of the stitches 18, four holes 19 are punched or cut through the superimposed sections 2 and 5 and similar holes 19' are formed in the sections 3 and 4. All of the holes 19 and 19a lie along a common line parallel with the upper edges 13 of the sections. The holes 19 and 198L are adapted to receive a tie-cord, as will be explained more fully hereinafter.

The toe ends 7 of the sections 2 and 5 are then opened up, or unfolded, and are superimposed upon the corresponding ends of the sections 3 and 4 with the seam formed by the stitching 18 disposed outermost, as illustrated in Fig. 5, where elements 2 and 5 are broken away to expose elements 3 and 4. The projecting material at the seams is folded back adjacent the edges 9, as indicated at 2b and 5b and the section 5 is sewed to the section 4, and the section 2 is sewed to the section 3 by a single row of stitches 20. lThis completes the sewing operatioiis on the upper 1. The sections 2, 3, 4, and 5 are then turned inside out and the assembly presents the appearance illustrated in Fig. 6, with all of the stitches 16, 17, 18 and 20V concealed from view and forming evaginated seams. The resulting structure has a double wall throughout, as is evident from Figs. 7, 8, and 9 and, moreover, the inner sections 2 and 3 serve as a liner for the outer sections 4 and 5.

The sections 2, 3, 4, and 5 may be triade of any suitable material, but fabric is employed in the preferred form in view of the coolness and comfort it affords. Heavy cotton fabric, such as Indianhead, heavy linen, sail cloth, lightweight canvas, etc., or any other vsuitable cloth having a substantial body, is quite satisfactory, it being understood, however, that the present invention is not limited to the use of any particular kind or weight of fabric. All of the sections 2, 3, 4, and 5 may be formed from the same plain or patterned material, such as a solid bright red, blue, or yellow, or a plaid or flowered pattern, although a very attractive and smart appearing article results when the inner or lining sections 2 and 3 and the outer sections 4 and 5 are for/med from 5a contrasting plain or patterned material.

A toe portion, generally identified by the numeral 21, is adapted to be Vassociated with the upper 1 in a manner to provide the general appearance of a moccasin-style toe. The toe portion 21 may be formed from a single thickness of material, but is preferably rnade so that it has a double wall. To this end, the toe portion 21 is formed of two identical pieces 22 and 23 each having theugeneral configuration illustrated in Fig. 10, a portion of the top -piece 22 being broken away to facilitate illustration. The pieces 22 andv23 are slightly larger than the ultimate size required of the toe portion and each` piece has a rounded end'portion 24 of generally senicircular shape struck on a radius 24. The pieces 22 and 23 progressively increase in width in a direction away from the end 24, so that their side edges 25 and 26 extend farther apart or diverge in a direction away from the end 24. The pieces 22 and 23 are extended in length to provide a tongue portion 27 remote from the toe end 24. The tongue portion 27 is delined by converging edges 28 and 29, which form continuations of the edges 25 and 26, respectively, and are interconnected by an arcuate portion -30 struck on a radius 36.

The pieces 22 and 23 are superimposed and sewn together by a single row of stitches 2la starting from a point 31 vand terminating at a point 32, spaced about l" from the point 31, so that an opening or gap G remains in the assembly between the points 31 and 32. Here again, the stitches 21a are spaced inwardly about 3/16 from the edge of the pieces 22 and 23 and thus follow the general contour l`of said pieces. After the pieces 22 and 23 have been sewn together by the stitches 21a, they are turned inside out, and the points 31 and 32 interconnected by stitches 33 closing the gap G, as indicated in Fig. ll. The pieces thus everted provide a toe and tongue of the proper size for use with the upper 1. Four holes 34 are then cutjor punched in the tongue portion 27 to receive a tie-cord.

The toeV portion 21 is secured to the upper edges of the toe side walls 7 by folding upwardly the adjacent edges of said toe portion into confronting relation with the inside ofthe sections 2 and 3 of the upper 1, and then sewing the parts together by overedge stitching 35, beginning at the point 36 and ending at the point 37, as shown in Figs. .12, 18 and 19. The overedge stitching 35 is schematically shown in Fig. 2l, and as will be apparent from Figs. 18 and 19, extends through four thicknesses of cloth. The portions of the pieces 22 and 23 disposed inwardly of the points 36 and 37 provide the free portion or tongue 27 for the article, adapted to overlie the instep of the wearer. The overedge stitching 35 imparts a pleasing appearance to the article and gives it the general appearance of a moccasin-style toe.

After the toe portion 21 have been sewn in place, the assembly is attached to an insole 38, preferably formed from a fairly heavy piece of canvas generally conforming to but larger than the size of the foot for which the upper 1 is designed. The lower edges 6 of the sections 2, 3, 4, and 5 are folded laterally outwardly and disposed above the canvas sole 38 with the edges of the double walls terminating in registration with the edge of the sole 38, and the parts thus positioned are joined together by a row of stitches 39 disposed about '3/16 inwardly from the edges of the overlapped materials. The parts are designed, of course, so that for any given size of upper, a corresponding size insole 33 is provided which has the exact dimensions necessary for sewing the parts together as aforedescribed. The sewing of the upper 1 to the insole 38 may start at any point, but preferably at eithei the extremity of the heel, or toe, which makes it easy to align the upper 1 with the insole 38, and then progressively position the edges of the parts in registration to stitch the same together around the entire periphery of the insole. While conventional, plain stitching 39 has been shown in Figs. 12 and l5, it will be apparent that conventional overedge stitching 4l) may additionally, or alternatively, be employed to keep the material at the edges of the insole 38 and upper 1 from unravcling. ightweight thread of a color matching or contrasting with the material of the upper 1Km-ay be used for the stitches 39. The overedge stitches 48 extend completely around the edge of the insole 38 and are preferably formed of a relatively heavy thread of harmonizing color to enhance the ornamental appearance of the article. However, the stitches 48, whether used alone or in combination with the stitches 39, serve the dual purpose of securing the upper 1 and the insole 38 together while also preventing nnraveling of the threads at the exposed edges of the upper and the insole, as will be apparent from Figs. 16 and 18. The overedge stitching 40 is diagrammatically shown per se in Fig. 22.

After the upper 1 and the insole 38 have been united, the assembly is fastened to a wear or main sole 41, Fig. 13, which is of the same general shape and contour as the insole 38. The wear sole 41 may comprise sponge or foam rubber, or any other, soft, yieldable material 42 which is of light weight and which will yield pleasantly under the weight of the wearer. A sponge or foam rubber layer 42 having a thickness of from 1/2 to 1 has been found to be quite suitable for the purpose. Such layer may be used alone or combined with an auxiliary sole 43 of tough, long-wearing rubber or other material bonded thereto to provide a composite main sole.

The joining of the assembled upper and insole, with the main sole, is preferably effected by the use of any conventional or suitable cement applied to the outer side of the insole 33 and to the upper surface of the main sole 41., and the two then held pressed in contact. Preferably, a waterproof, quick-drying cement is employed in order to speed production. The adhesive employed is shown in exaggerated thickness at 44 in Figs. 18, 19 and 20. When a quick-drying cement is employed, the insole 38 may be pressed by hand against the main sole 41 to effect pressure bonding of the two together, but if desired, the parts may be clamped.

It will be noted from Fig. 12 that two of the holes 34 in the tongue 27 are located adjacent the stitching points 36 and 37 and that the two additional holes 34 are formed closer together and lie nearer the end of the tongue. A tie-cord 45 has one end thereof first threaded through one of the latter openings from the outside of the tongue 27 and then through the nearest lower opening from the inner side of said tongue and is then successively threaded through the openings 19 and 19a in the upper 1, completely around the ankle-embracing portions 8, and then through the lower opening 34 in the tongue from the outer side of said tongue, and nally through the remaining upper opening from the inner side thereof, so that both ends of the tie-cord overlie the tongue. The tiecord 45 is preferably formed from multi-strand, heavy twisted cotton, but any suitable material may be employed. The tie-cord may be single or multicolored, as desired, to contrast pleasingly with the color or pattern of the material of the upper 1. The ends of the tiecord 45 are knotted as indicated at 46 and 47 to prevent untwisting thereof, and the portions thereof beyond the` knots is unraveled to present a tassel appearance. The completed article may be securely fastened on the foot of a wearer by drawing the cord tight and tying the ends into a bow as illustrated in Figs. 14, 18, and 19.

The insole 38 and the main sole 41 preferably have a contour adapting the saine for wear on either the left or right foot, so that only a single shaped toe, insole and main sole need be provided, with the result that production is greatly speeded thereby. The material comprising the upper is sufficiently soft and flexible, and fits loosely enough so as not to cause any discomfort to the wearer whether the same article be Worn on the left or the right foot.

While the upper 1 has been described as having the holes 19 and 19a punched therein after the sections 2, 3, 4 and 5 have been assembled, it is to be understood that the holes may be punched in said sections at the time they are originally cut. Thus, the sections 2, 3, 4 and 5 may be die-cut and the holes punched therein simultaneously with the die-cutting operation, and then sewed together as aforedescribed. This is also true of the pieces 22 and 23 of the toe portion 21, which can be die-cut and the holes 34 punched therein simultaneously with the -die-cutting operation, bef-ore the pieces are sewed together. Actually, from the manufacturing standpoint, the alternative method just described is preferred.

It will be understood that numerous changes may be made in the shape of the parts employed in constructing the footwear disclosed herein, and that the parts may be sewn together in a different order and manner from that described herein, without departing from the principles of the invention or the scope of the annexed claim.

l claim:

An upper for an article of footwear, comprising: two pairs of flexible members with one pair superimposed on the other, each of said members having an identical size and configuration with respect to each of the others of said members, each of said members having a narrow portion extending rearwardly from an end thereof for approximately one-half the length of said member and serving as a side wall for the forward portion of the foot, each of said members also having a relatively wide portion at its other end constituting the remainder of said member, said narrow and wide portions merging together in a section having a concavely curved upper edge, said wide portions serving as a side wall for a heel and ankle embracing section, an evaginated seam securing together the wide ends of the members of each pair with the evaginated portions of one pair in contacting relation to the corresponding evaginated portions of the other pair, each member of each pair also having an evaginated upper marginal portion disposed in contacting relation to the contiguous member of the other pair; an evaginated seam securing together said upper marginal portions of said members in said contacting relationship, the stitches of said last-mentioned seam extending through and holding the upper extremities of the vertical marginal portions of said wide ends in said evaginated position; and an evaginated seam securing the narrow ends of the members of each pair together in evaginated relation with the portions of one pair in contacting relation to the corresponding portions of the other pair, said last-mentioned stitching extending through and holding the extremities of the evaginated ends of said upper marginal portions at said narrow ends in evaginated relation.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 301,816 Habermann July 8, 1884 976,313 Tebeau Nov. 22, 1910 1,389,376 Obie Aug. 30, 1921 1,533,668 Smith Apr. 14, 1925 1,733,991 Golden Oct. 29, 1929 1,749,254 Lippert Mar. 4, 1930 1,891,064 Simonovitz Dec. 13, 1932 2,005,007 Sandler June 18, 1935 2,073,543 Wernmark Mar. 9, 1937 2,215,924 Grundman Sept. 24, 1940 2,314,205 Forschner Mar. 16, 1943 2,334,659 Van Arsdale Nov. 16, 1943 2,431,506 Reider Nov. 25, 1947 

